Showing posts with label Christmas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Christmas. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Epifania e La Cavalcata dei Magi

January 6th marks the 12th day of Christmas, otherwise known as Epiphany.  In Florence, this holiday (yes, it is a national holiday in Italy!) is celebrated with an amazingly HUGE historical parade called La Cavalcata dei Magi, the Cavalcade of the Magi, which recalls the arrival of the Magi (or the 3 Wise Men) visiting the infant Jesus. This grand parade was resurrected in 1997 during the 700th anniversary of the laying of the foundation of the Duomo.  The parade first appeared in the early 1400's (the earliest written evidence of this was in 1417) and ran every 3 years (every 5 years after 1447).  Today, it runs every year, so you can plan to see the parade if you happen to be in town this time of the year.




The parade route begins at Palazzo Pitti, continues up Via Guicciardini, crosses the Arno River via the Ponte Vecchio, then winds around a bit before finally ending in Piazza del Duomo.  There is a live nativity at a little stable next to the front of the church (which contains a large presepe - nativity scene - of terra cotta figures throughout the Christmas season), and this is where the "magi" end their procession through town and finally present the baby Jesus with their gifts.  Live animals are present, usually fenced in next to the stable.

An adorable lamb being shown before the parade arrives at the Duomo

Miniature horse being shown to the crowd awaiting the parade's arrival
In front of the Duomo, on the steps, is where the dignitaries sit.  Both church and government officials view the parade together from this vantage point.  Some speak to those gathered prior to and after the parade.  A children's choir sings from the steps before the parade arrives.

A children's choir performs for the crowd
Over 500 people from Florence and across Tuscany participate in the parade, all of which are in historical costume.  Musicians, sbandieratori (flag bearers), and representatives from towns across the province of Florence take part in the procession.







2 of the 3 Magi
Another participant in the parade is Befana!  Befana is the traditional Epiphany figure in Italy.  She is depicted as an old woman with a broom, much like a witch.  Tradition is that she flies around on her broomstick and visits children at night, leaving good little boys and girls candy, sweets and small toys.  Bad children are given coal.  The story goes that Befana was an old woman who was approached by the Magi when they were on their way to find the Christ child.  She provided them with directions and shelter for the night, but did not accompany them on their journey due to having "too much housework" to do.  Of course, later, she regretted her decision and changed her mind, so she went off on her own to try to find the Magi and the baby Jesus, but could not find them.  So, to this day she wanders around searching still.

Befana arrives!
After everyone arrives at the Piazza, singing and cheering on of city pride commences and then finally balloons are released into the air, concluding the festivities.


Witnessing the Cavalcata is a lot of fun.  It can get a bit chilly standing on the stones, so if you go, I suggest wearing warm socks under your shoes!  My toes were like ice last year when we went!  

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

"Weihnachtsmarkt" - Mercato Tedesco di Natale - Piazza Santa Croce


The "Weihnachtsmarkt", also known as the "Mercato Tedesco di Natale" or "Mercato di Heidelberg", has been setting up in Piazza Santa Croce for 11 years now.  55 wooden vendor stalls set up shop to open on 28 November this year and will be in business until 16 December.

This German Market is probably the most popular Christmas Market in Florence.  Crowds gather each day from 10:00 in the morning until 8:00 at night, milling about the vendors, browsing and purchasing gifts and ornaments from around Europe.


And then there's the food!  Walking toward Piazza Santa Croce, you can start to smell the amazingly wonderful aromas that waft through the streets.  German food abounds.  Some of the offerings include:  pork roasting "whole hog" on a spit, wurstel, pretzels (some as big as your head), sauerkraut, and of course, apple strudel!  To help wash all this delicious food down, they sell beer and warm cups of mulled wine.

Roast pork

Bomboloni - filled donuts.  Perfect for a morning at the market...or anytime!

Apple Strudel.  This version from Northern Italy.

This version of Apple Strudel is from Austria.

At the Austrian Strudel booth, you can find different kinds of strudel...traditional apple, mixed berries, etc.

Stirring the big pot of sauerkraut

Friends and families spend time here eating, drinking, shopping and visiting with each other.  It is a very festive atmosphere, one that the locals really enjoy each year.


Christmas shopping at the market is a very international experience.  The Chamber of Commerce works with the trade associations of participating countries to organize this annual event.  Last year, there were 11 countries that participated and crowds totaled 150,000 over the course of the 20 days that it was open.

Vendors sell a variety of goods, from German foods, Christmas ornaments, clothing, toys, to English tea sets and spices from around the world.

This vendor is selling lavender products from Provence, France.
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Dried herbs, teas, and spices are for sale at this booth.
In addition to the food, drink and shopping, the piazza that the market is located in - Piazza Santa Croce - is one of the most beautiful in Florence.  The neo-Gothic facade of the Basilica stands facing the market.  Santa Croce is always a treat to visit, so if you are in the area, perhaps you can visit the church and then head over to the market.  (For more information on Santa Croce, you can read my blog post about it here).


If you happen to find yourself in Florence around the holidays, make a point to visit the Weihnachtsmarkt and some of the other Christmas markets around town.  These events really help to put everyone in the holiday spirit!


Sunday, January 8, 2012

Natale in Italia - Christmas in Italy

I know, I know...Christmas is over.  The Christmas Season ended last Friday with Epiphany.   I know.  But...a lot of folks have been asking me how it was to be in Italy for Christmas, so let's just pretend it's still Christmas for a few minutes, ok?  Besides, Christmas is "the most wonderful time of the year" according to the song made popular by Andy Williams, so who wouldn't want to re-visit for a bit?

The Christmas tree in the Piazza del Duomo, Florence
Christmas is a magical time of the year to me.  I found that it was even more so when I experienced it in Florence.  Christmas in Italy is amazing.  You might not get a white Christmas, but the spirit is definitely alive and well.  Decorations abound.  The first week of December, there was a "Festival of Light" in Florence.  They streets, buildings and bridges were all decked out in beautiful lights.  We made the trip into the historic city center twice to see the sights.  They were gorgeous.

Christmas lights suspended above a street in Florence.

Ponte Vecchio, lit up for the holidays.

Piazza della Repubblica, awash in Christmas lights

The Piazza della Repubblica was a beautiful site.  Lights completely covered one of the buildings.  The carousel was turning, accompanied by light-hearted music and the laughter of children.  There was a market set up in part of the piazza.  Booths with vendors selling cheeses (we bought a fantastic peccorino nero), meats, roasted nuts, small gifts, and...necci.

Necci!
The necci booth was run by an absolutely adorable elderly couple.  Necci are a type of crepe made with chestnut flour, which is cooked on round, flat, hand-held irons.  The recipe hails from the mountains of Pistoia, a town approximately 30 -35 minutes away from Florence.  We got them con ricotta - with ricotta spread in the middle.  Fabulous!

The Christmas market in Piazza Santa Croce
Christmas markets pop up all over Italy in the month of December.  The biggest and most famous in Florence is the one that comes each year to the Piazza Santa Croce.  Funny enough, this is a German market!  The booths are filled with such treats as apple strudel, pork, sauerkraut, pretzels, and gifts with a German flair - such as Christmas tree ornaments and toys.

A booth at the German market.  Apple Strudel and Pretzels the size of your head!

Presepe (nativity scene) next to Santa Maria del Fiore.
Presepe, nativity scenes, are all over Italy during the Christmas season.  Every church has one.  Some are traditional...


some are...not so traditional.

La Pietra Prende Vita - The Stone Takes Life.  Created by Stefano Innocenti.  (Pistoia)
A presepe made entirely of dried pasta!

A Christmas Eve tradition in Italy is to have fish for Christmas Eve dinner.  In Southern Italy, they have the tradition of "The Feast of the Seven Fishes".  Well, we were in Central Italy, so we only had 3 forms of seafood.  2 different types of fish and a fabulous crustacean.

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Christmas Eve Dinner...prior to being roasted.

Christmas Day 2011 was gorgeous.  The sun was brilliant and I think it reached around 50 degrees.

Christmas Day in Florence
We walked around the city in search of Madonnari - street artists who produce gorgeous sidewalk chalk paintings of the Madonna and Bambino.  We only found one in the whole city, but his work was amazing.


We hiked up the hill from the Arno all the way up to San Miniato al Monte as the afternoon drifted into twilight.  The view was magnificent.

View of Florence from San Miniato al Monte.
We closed Christmas Day 2011 by visiting the Piazzale Michelangelo at night.  The views of the city from the Piazzale are absolutely breathtaking at anytime you visit, but on Christmas...it was extra special.


Christmas Tree at Piazzale Michelangelo
My Christmas in Italy was better than I could have imagined.  The country definitely knows how to celebrate. Everyone enjoys the markets, lights, parties.  You see families, lovers, and friends all gathering together to celebrate the season.  It is truly magical.