Epifania e La Cavalcata dei Magi

January 6th marks the 12th day of Christmas, otherwise known as Epiphany.  In Florence, this holiday (yes, it is a national holiday in Italy!) is celebrated with an amazingly HUGE historical parade called La Cavalcata dei Magi, the Cavalcade of the Magi, which recalls the arrival of the Magi (or the 3 Wise Men) visiting the infant Jesus. This grand parade was resurrected in 1997 during the 700th anniversary of the laying of the foundation of the Duomo.  The parade first appeared in the early 1400's (the earliest written evidence of this was in 1417) and ran every 3 years (every 5 years after 1447).  Today, it runs every year, so you can plan to see the parade if you happen to be in town this time of the year.

The parade route begins at Palazzo Pitti, continues up Via Guicciardini, crosses the Arno River via the Ponte Vecchio, then winds around a bit before finally ending in Piazza del Duomo.  There is a live nativity at a little stable next to the front of the church (which contains a large presepe - nativity scene - of terra cotta figures throughout the Christmas season), and this is where the "magi" end their procession through town and finally present the baby Jesus with their gifts.  Live animals are present, usually fenced in next to the stable.

An adorable lamb being shown before the parade arrives at the Duomo

Miniature horse being shown to the crowd awaiting the parade's arrival

In front of the Duomo, on the steps, is where the dignitaries sit.  Both church and government officials view the parade together from this vantage point.  Some speak to those gathered prior to and after the parade.  A children's choir sings from the steps before the parade arrives.

A children's choir performs for the crowd

Over 500 people from Florence and across Tuscany participate in the parade, all of which are in historical costume.  Musicians, sbandieratori (flag bearers), and representatives from towns across the province of Florence take part in the procession.

2 of the 3 Magi

Another participant in the parade is Befana!  Befana is the traditional Epiphany figure in Italy.  She is depicted as an old woman with a broom, much like a witch.  Tradition is that she flies around on her broomstick and visits children at night, leaving good little boys and girls candy, sweets and small toys.  Bad children are given coal.  The story goes that Befana was an old woman who was approached by the Magi when they were on their way to find the Christ child.  She provided them with directions and shelter for the night, but did not accompany them on their journey due to having "too much housework" to do.  Of course, later, she regretted her decision and changed her mind, so she went off on her own to try to find the Magi and the baby Jesus, but could not find them.  So, to this day she wanders around searching still.

Befana arrives!

After everyone arrives at the Piazza, singing and cheering on of city pride commences and then finally balloons are released into the air, concluding the festivities.

Witnessing the Cavalcata is a lot of fun.  It can get a bit chilly standing on the stones, so if you go, I suggest wearing warm socks under your shoes!  My toes were like ice last year when we went!  

"Weihnachtsmarkt" - Mercato Tedesco di Natale - Piazza Santa Croce

The "Weihnachtsmarkt", also known as the "Mercato Tedesco di Natale" or "Mercato di Heidelberg", has been setting up in Piazza Santa Croce for 11 years now.  55 wooden vendor stalls set up shop to open on 28 November this year and will be in business until 16 December.

This German Market is probably the most popular Christmas Market in Florence.  Crowds gather each day from 10:00 in the morning until 8:00 at night, milling about the vendors, browsing and purchasing gifts and ornaments from around Europe.

And then there's the food!  Walking toward Piazza Santa Croce, you can start to smell the amazingly wonderful aromas that waft through the streets.  German food abounds.  Some of the offerings include:  pork roasting "whole hog" on a spit, wurstel, pretzels (some as big as your head), sauerkraut, and of course, apple strudel!  To help wash all this delicious food down, they sell beer and warm cups of mulled wine.

Roast pork

Bomboloni - filled donuts.  Perfect for a morning at the market...or anytime!

Apple Strudel.  This version from Northern Italy.

This version of Apple Strudel is from Austria.

At the Austrian Strudel booth, you can find different kinds of strudel...traditional apple, mixed berries, etc.

Stirring the big pot of sauerkraut

Friends and families spend time here eating, drinking, shopping and visiting with each other.  It is a very festive atmosphere, one that the locals really enjoy each year.

Christmas shopping at the market is a very international experience.  The Chamber of Commerce works with the trade associations of participating countries to organize this annual event.  Last year, there were 11 countries that participated and crowds totaled 150,000 over the course of the 20 days that it was open.

Vendors sell a variety of goods, from German foods, Christmas ornaments, clothing, toys, to English tea sets and spices from around the world.

This vendor is selling lavender products from Provence, France.

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Dried herbs, teas, and spices are for sale at this booth.

In addition to the food, drink and shopping, the piazza that the market is located in - Piazza Santa Croce - is one of the most beautiful in Florence.  The neo-Gothic facade of the Basilica stands facing the market.  Santa Croce is always a treat to visit, so if you are in the area, perhaps you can visit the church and then head over to the market.  (For more information on Santa Croce, you can read my blog post about it here).

If you happen to find yourself in Florence around the holidays, make a point to visit the Weihnachtsmarkt and some of the other Christmas markets around town.  These events really help to put everyone in the holiday spirit!