Roma - Il Colosseo

Back in early July, we decided to take a day trip down to Rome to see some of the sights.  I was pretty excited about it, mostly because we were planning on visiting the Vatican as well, which is one place that I've always wanted to go (but I'll save that for a future post).  

IL COLOSSEO - The Colosseum in Rome

We woke up early one Tuesday morning and headed to the train station in Calenzano, which was where we decided to start our journey since that small station has plenty of free parking.  Of course, we ended up running late - me getting ready & Simone packing up some panini (sandwiches) in his backpack.  We jumped in the car and basically flew to the station.  What would normally take us 20 minutes to drive (or 25 if there was traffic) only took us 15.  I don't want to know how fast he was driving, but with no traffic on the street so early (it was before 7am), it was a breeze getting there.  We ended up there with about 5 minutes to spare!

Waiting for the train at Santa Maria Novella

Hopped on the train and took it into Santa Maria Novella station in Florence to get our connection.  We had about an hour before our train left, so we found a couple seats and waited.  

Finally, it was time to leave, so we boarded the high-speed train and settled in.  The trip only lasted an hour and a half, which is a lot shorter than the 4 hours it would take to drive there (which is the benefit of taking a train...that and not having to worry about parking and city traffic).  Watching the landscape as it whizzed by was my favorite thing to do while on the train.  Fields of sunflowers, mountains, little villages...all were absolutely beautiful.  And thank goodness Simone packed some panini, because we ended up munching on them on the way there.  Much cheaper than what we could buy on the train!

We arrived at Roma Termini around 9am and wandered around before we decided to take the metro to the Colosseum.  We had tickets to the Vatican Museums at 12:30, so we figured we had time to see the Colosseum and grab some lunch before then.  

When we emerged from the metro station, the Colosseum was right in front of us.  All we could say was "wow".  It was extremely impressive.  HUGE!  Bigger than I had imagined!  We crossed the street and stood in line for tickets.  That took FOREVER.  There were so many tourists, due to it being high tourist season in the middle of summer.  I decided then and there that the next time we decide to go to Rome it will be in the fall, winter or early spring!

Walking into the Colosseum (finally) was spectacular.  This giant ancient stadium could hold anywhere from 50,000 to 80,000 people.  It was the largest amphitheater of the Roman Empire and was built between 70 & 80 AD.  Of course, it was used for gladiator competitions and other entertainment spectacles over the ages, but that ended ages ago, most likely in the 6th century.  Now the building is partially in ruin, due to several earthquakes over the ages (a big one was in 1349 that collapsed the south side of the exterior), as well as some of the stone being either stolen or re-purposed.  

 

 

View of the hypogea - the underground portion of the Colosseum

View from an upper level, looking down on the hypogea and the partial reconstruction of the wooden floor

 

In part of the Colosseum, there is a museum.  While we were there, it was exhibiting things having to do with the Emperor Constantine, the first Christian Emperor.  

Reconstruction of the head of a colossal statue of Constantine

Sandstone pillar with the tetrarchs - about 305 AD

Marble bust of Tetrarch - late 3rd century

Marble & green glass Christogram - Monogram of Siricius - late 4th century

Marble statue of Herakles - late 2nd century

Marble mithraic relief - late 3rd century

In the Piazza del Colosseo, there's the Arch of Constantine, which was commissioned by the Roman Senate to commemorate the victory of Constantine over Maxentius in 312 AD.  It was finished and dedicated in 315AD.

Then, directly across  from the piazza and the Colosseum is the Roman Forum.  From the Colosseum, you can see the Temple of Venus and Roma, which was begun in the year 121AD under the Emperor Hadrian, who was actually the architect.  It was inaugurated in 135 AD by Hadrian and finally finished in 141 AD.  

Unfortunately, we didn't make it to see the forum or the temple.  We had an appointment at the Vatican and by the time that was all over and done with, we had to cut our trip short by a few hours due to the fact that I was stupid and wore new shoes that day.  All the walking around the Colosseum, the Vatican and Rome turned my feet into hamburger and I couldn't walk without being in a huge amount of pain. So, we changed our ticket for an earlier one, hopped on the train and headed back home.  We'll go back to Rome someday - when there are less tourists and it's cooler...and I'll be sure to wear better shoes!

This little guy apparently lives at the Colosseum

Tiramisu for You!

Without a doubt, one of my all-time favorite Italian desserts is tiramisu.  Translated, tiramisu means "pick-me-up", which is an apt description of this delightful dessert!  I'm sure you may have had it before at Italian restaurants.  I know it used to be my "go-to" dessert whenever I was out with friends, but it wasn't until I was in Italy that I found out that it is REALLY easy to make!

There are multiple recipes for tiramisu, but this is one that is considered the most traditional.  It only has 6 ingredients and requires no cooking whatsoever, which makes it great for the summertime when the last thing you want to do is turn on the oven or the stove!

Yes, it has eggs in it.  Yes, they aren't cooked.  If you're scared of raw eggs, don't be.  Make sure they're fresh and you should be fine.  I haven't gotten sick from using raw eggs yet.

Knock on wood.

Seriously though, you should be fine.  If you are still wigged out over it, look for pasteurized eggs and go with them.

Now, on with the show!

You'll need these:

Plus unsweetened cocoa powder, which I completely forgot to include in the picture.  (oops!)

So, the list of ingredients is:
3 fresh eggs
250 grams mascarpone 
50 grams white sugar
savoiardi (ladyfingers) - I use about 18-20 of them
strong coffee - you can brew it or use instant like I did because I didn't feel like pulling out the moka pot.  Just make sure it's fairly strong and you'll need about 1 1/2 cups worth, maybe a bit more.  I didn't measure, but if you use instant, it's easy to make more quickly!  Oh, and it needs to be tepid or cool when you use it.
unsweetened cocoa powder - enough for dusting.  Maybe a few tablespoons worth.

First thing you are going to want to do is to separate the eggs.

Beautiful bright orange yolks!  I love super-fresh eggs!

Then measure out your mascarpone...

The package I had was 500 grams, so half.  Which means I can make tiramisu TWICE!

...and your sugar.

So, you'll end up with this:

There's the cocoa!!  :)

Ok, so let's get started.

With a fork, beat the sugar into the egg yolks until it's light and fluffy.

Then, add the mascarpone and do the same until it's a nice creamy consistency, like this:

Next, beat the egg whites until they're fairly stiff.  If you have an electric mixer or hand beater, I suggest using it.  It takes a lot of elbow grease to use a whisk!

Is the coffee ready?  Good.  Add a little sugar to it and get ready to dunk some savoiardi (ladyfingers)!

Coffee, coffee, coffee!!!

Now as far as dishes are concerned, you can use a small baking dish or you could use a bowl...completely up to you.  I happened to have a disposable aluminum pan that was the perfect size, so I used that.

Ok, back to the recipe.

QUICKLY dip the cookies into the coffee.  You don't want to let them soak because they will get too mushy.  As long as they are quickly submerged and pulled out, you'll be fine.  Savoiardi are a bit drier than the ladyfingers that I've had in the US and they really soaked up the coffee fast, so just see how things go with the ones that you use.  I just quickly dunk them and put them in the pan in a layer.

Once you have a layer of the dipped cookies, place half of the mascarpone/egg mixture on top.

Starting to layer the mascarpone!

Once you have the cookies covered with a layer of the mascarpone mixture, sprinkle a little cocoa powder on top.

Place another layer of the cookies dipped in the coffee, and another layer of the mascarpone mixture.  Then give it a good sprinkling of cocoa powder, making sure that you get it all nicely and evenly covered.

Stick it in the refrigerator to chill for at least 2 hours. I know, it's hard to wait that long.  Try making it before you have to go somewhere so that you aren't tempted.  That's what I did.

Cut into pieces to serve.

Try not to eat the entire pan in one sitting!

Here's the recipe in standard format:

Tiramisu
(serves 6)

6 eggs, divided
50 grams white sugar
250 grams mascarpone
strong coffee, cooled and sweetened with a little sugar (approximately 1 1/2 cups)
18 - 20 savoiardi or ladyfinger cookies
unsweetened cocoa powder

Beat the sugar into the egg yolks with a fork until light and fluffy.  Add the mascarpone and beat until smooth and creamy.  Beat the egg whites until they are fairly stiff, then mix in with the mascarpone mixture.

Quickly dip the savoiardi into the coffee and layer into the bottom of a pan.  Top with half of the mascarpone mixture and lightly sprinkle with cocoa powder.  Make another layer of dipped savoiardi, and finish with the rest of the mascarpone.  Sprinkle evenly on top with cocoa powder.  Place in the refrigerator to chill for at least 2 hours.

Chianti!

Chianti is a really nice day-trip to take to get away from the hustle and bustle of Florence.  Chianti is actually a REGION, not a city, and it spans from south of Florence to right around Siena.  It is best known as the region from where the famous Chianti wines are produced.  I would give you a more detailed explanation of the region and its wines, but if you're that interested, head over to Wikipedia.  

We made a trip over to Chianti recently and I must say, it was a fantastic experience!  First of all, the landscape.  You will be greeted with rolling hills and mountains, covered in trees, grape vineyards, and olive orchards.  It is truly magnificent to drive or ride a bicycle if you are so inclined (and in shape...because...wow...there are some steep hills!).  When on top of a hill, it seems like you can see forever!

Panzano in Chianti...and Dario Cecchini

Our first stop was to Panzano in Chianti to visit Dario Cecchini, probably the most famous butcher in the country.  I had seen him on television before where he completely butchered an entire leg of beef in minutes and was excited to be able to see him in person.  When we approached the Antica Macelleria Cecchini, we were greeted with rock and roll music and offered a glass of Chianti wine as soon as we walked through the door.  Dario was working behind the counter and there was a spread of Tuscan bread slices with olive oil, a huge dish of lardo, plate of salume...all to try for free.  The lardo was magnificent, in my opinion.  I could have stood there all day and munched on that!  The shop is rather small, but one whole side of it is lined with bottles of his sauces, olive oils, jars of his seasoning mixes and other whatnots.  There's a large bust of Dante there as well.  Dario is a huge fan of Dante, and according to Simone, he has memorized the entire Divine Comedy. 

Outdoor dining at Doc Dario (he has another restaurant "Officina" that is indoors)

Within a few minutes, we were ushered upstairs to his restaurant, Doc Dario, which is one of the main reasons we went! We were seated at a communal table outside on the terrace underneath the shade of a couple large umbrellas.  I had the Mac Dario...a 250 gram, thick, juicy hamburger patty, encrusted with bread crumbs (I had mine rare, just like I like it), garlic and sage roasted potatoes, and some red onion in olive oil and a couple slices of fresh, ripe tomato.  It was absolutely superb!  The meat was cooked perfectly and was so moist, juicy and flavorful...I really didn't want it to end!  I ate half of it with only a sprinkling of Dario's seasoned salt mixture, then I tried some of his sauces: Mediterranean mustard, mustard and Chianti ketchup.  My favorite was the mustard, which was rather sweet.  There was bread and water (both sparkling and still) on the table as part of the meal.  After we finished and paid (mine was only 10 euro), we headed back down to the shop, where I was able to shake Dario's hand and thank him for a wonderful meal.  He is a really nice guy who is just larger than life.  I admit it, I was a bit starstruck!  I didn't even think to take a picture!!  

I highly recommend visiting Dario's shop and his restaurant.  It's fun and delicious!  The restaurant is only open from noon until 3pm, Monday through Saturday (closed Sunday), and prices range from 10 euro all the way up to 50 euro (but you get a LOT of food!).  You can order some wine or beer if you so desire, or bring your own bottle of wine (they don't charge a corkage fee if you do, unlike a lot of places).  The server that we had spoke fluent Italian and English.  I don't know, but I assume they probably speak a few different languages.  The butchershop is open every day from 9am until 4pm. 

Greve in Chianti...and a lot of wine

Main piazza in Greve in Chianti

Photo op...I love Chianti

After we filled our bellies at Dario's, we drove over to Greve in Chianti.  Greve seems to be a big tourist destination, seeing as I heard a lot of English speaking people there...even more than when I go to Florence! There's a nice piazza there in the center that is surrounded by various shops and restaurants.  There is another famous butcher shop there - L'Antica Macelleria Falorni - run by the Falorni family.  Falorni also owns and runs the Museo di Vino (Wine Museum) and a wonderful cantina (La Cantina di Greve in Chianti)  where you can try and buy wines and olive oils.  The cantina is over 100 years old and is a lot of fun to visit if you enjoy tasting wine.

One of the wine tasting stations

The way it works is this:  you purchase a wine card in an amount that you desire (10, 15, 20, 25 euros), then you take the card to one of the many stations found throughout the cantina.  Slide the card into the slot and it will display the amount of money you have remaining on your card.  Take your wine glass (that is given to you when you purchase the card) and hold it under the spigot in front of the wine that you want to taste.  Push the button above the bottle selected (you can choose a tasting size up to half of a glass) and the machine will dispense it and deduct the amount from your card.  Tasting amounts range from around 70 cents on up (I saw one rather expensive bottle that cost over 5 euro to taste!).  They have all sorts of wines, reds, whites, sparkling...even grappa and limoncello.  Along with the wines, they have a selection of olive oils, packaged meats, pastas, and other assorted things.  You can try the olive oils (with little pieces of bread found at the cashier's counter) for free.  If you feel a bit peckish, they have some cold dishes for sale, along with some sweet pastries and desserts.  The cantina is open from 10am until 7pm daily.

Free Olive Oil Tasting Station

Plenty of comfortable seating

I'm back!

Sorry for the lack of posts for the past few months.  I was in the US for awhile, but made it back to Florence a few weeks ago.  Now that I'm settled back in (and recovered from my jet lag!), I plan to make these posts more frequently.

I arrived at the very end of April to FABULOUS weather.  Temperatures were around 80 degrees Fahrenheit/26.5 degrees Celcius with a lot of sun.  Then something happened and it got cold.  Today it only got up to around 54 degrees Fahrenheit/12 degrees Celcius!  And rain!  So much rain today!  It has definitely been a cooler May here in Tuscany!

Speaking of May, there are so many things going on right now in and around Florence!  If you plan to be in town now or any time this summer, there are constantly fun and exciting things going on.

Right now, until tomorrow, there is the big Gelato Festival going on in Florence.  The festival covers 3 piazzas and includes a ton of gelato to sample, cooking classes, etc.  If you're not in town now, don't worry...there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy gelato here!  Grom is a chain, but one of the best in the city and is very close to the duomo.  Every time I've been, there has been a line out the door...but it is completely worth it!

Caffe', Nocciola e Fiordilatte (coffee, hazelnut and sweet cream flavors)

Various sagre (festivals) are going on this weekend.  The final weekend of the cinghiale festival in Montebonello/Rufina is going on.  Here you can have a two, three or four course meal featuring the cinghiale...tuscan wild boar!  We went last weekend and really enjoyed the food.  In case you're wondering, it tastes more like beef than pork!

Also going on this weekend is the sagra del tortello e della bistecca in Luco-Grezzano.  A festival centered around filled pasta (think large tortellini) and the amazing tuscan "bistecca" (steak) can't be all that bad!

The first weekend of the Festa Medioevale Malmantile (Medieval Festival in Malmantile) is this weekend as well.  Knights, food, and fun can be found in this town located about 25-30 minutes south of Florence.

More to come...stay tuned!

World Nutella Day 2013 - Nutella with Bananas

It's that time of year again!  Time to break out your big jar of tasty chocolate-hazelnut spread, a big spoon and smile, because it's WORLD NUTELLA DAY!

Unfortunately, this year WND finds me several thousand miles from home.  I'm currently in the US for awhile, staying with friends, so I do not have my own kitchen in order to prepare a delicious Nutella concoction.

:(

Boo.

However, I am not going to let that fact stop me from doing something for WND!

I don't know too many people who don't like Nutella.  That includes kids.  I was thinking of finger foods that toddlers can eat.  They should be able to enjoy WND too!  Why not with...bananas!

Little kids, big kids and adults alike will enjoy this easy snack.  Plus...FRUIT!  So it's sort of healthy, right?

First, peel a banana and cut into slices.

Then, spoon on some Nutella.  About 1/2 teaspoon or so on each.  I went a little overboard on some, but then again, you can never have too much Nutella!

Then...enjoy!  These little guys could be easily served at a party too.  Stick a toothpick in each & you've got a great party snack!  You could try topping them with a mini marshmallow too and then dust them with some graham cracker crumbs for a deconstructed sort of s'more.

Or, do what I did to a few of them and make mini banana-Nutella sandwich bites!

I hope you will try this or my recipe from last year (Nutella Cupcakes) today or sometime soon.  Nutella is a wonderful treat and worth celebrating.  

Look for me next year!  I should be home then & better prepared to dazzle you with another great Nutella recipe! 

Buon appitito!

In case you are curious about World Nutella Day, it is a day devoted to eating and enjoying the delicious chocolate-hazelnut spread from Italy:  Nutella.  It was created in 2007 and has been getting bigger and better each year.  Thanks to the brilliant idea of Sara Rosso, an American living in Milan, Italy, we can lift our spoons in celebration.  You can check out her blog here: Ms. Adventures in Italy.  She posts some amazing recipes and photos about her adventures!


Also check out the blog of her co-host of World Nutella Day, Michelle Fabio, an American living in Calabria, Italy.  Here's the link: Bleeding Espresso.  She has some great recipes too, as well as inspirational posts.

For more information on World Nutella Day, check out the official site: Nutella Day.  There is a listing of tons of recipes from WNDs past and present!

Shopping in Florence

Who doesn't like to go shopping?

Sales window at a shop in Florence

Well, actually, I don't really enjoy shopping all that much.  I'm a bit of a tight-wad when it comes to parting with my money.  But I do enjoy window shopping and seeing what's out there.  Florence doesn't fail to deliver as far as shopping is concerned.  The city is filled with all sorts of shops and markets selling everything from food to clothing to souvenirs and everything in between.

Ferragamo shoes on display

Are you a fan of high fashion?  If so, you'll want to visit Via Tornabuoni.  Ferragamo, Bulgari, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, and Prada are a few of the names you will see lining this famous street.  If you have a huge budget, this is for you.  If not, don't worry...window shopping is free!

For those of us who don't have that much money to burn, there are other shops around town where you can find clothing that won't break the bank.  Chain stores, such as the department store Coin on Via dei Calzaiuoli, are easily found around town.  Smaller, independent places can be much more fun to shop at, in my opinion, and are located all over town.

Markets are a lot of fun to visit and you can often find great bargains.  The Mercato Nuovo, located under the Loggia del Porcellino, is open every day (except for some holidays) from 9am until 8pm between the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November (and is open the rest of the year from 9am until 7:30pm).  The Mercato di San Lorenzo, located in the Piazza San Lorenzo, is open from 9am to 7pm.  Other markets pop up now and then around town, just keep your eyes open.

Mercato Nuovo at the Loggia del Porcellino

You can find just about anything you would want at a market.  Leather goods are one of the most popular items, due to the fact that the area is known for their exquisite leather goods.  Bags, purses, jackets, wallets, belts, leather covered journals...all can be found at markets or at the many leather shops around town.  (Note:  the majority of leather shops can be found in the area of Santa Croce.)

What are some other popular things to buy in Florence?  Here's a list of things that Florence is known for:

• Florentine paper - these are very ornate, gorgeous papers.  There are stationary shops around town, especially near the Duomo.
• Pinocchio - The Adventures of Pinocchio was written by Carlo Collodi, a native fiorentino, so it's no wonder this wooden fellow is pretty popular around town.
• Ceramics - plates, platters, mugs, vases and more can be found at these shops, primarily found in the area just north of the Ponte Vecchio.
• Souvenirs - t-shirts, key chains, postcards, miniature replicas of the statue David...you can find these and many more (sometimes strange) items in shops and markets just about everywhere.

Jewelry shopping on the Ponte Vecchio

And, of course...jewelry.  You can find jewelry shops all over the city, but the most famous are the ones located on the Ponte Vecchio.  Granted, most of the jewelry at these shops is very expensive (in my opinion), but there is something extremely special about knowing that the ring, bracelet, necklace, etc, that you are wearing was purchased on one of the most famous bridges in the world!

And how can I forget food?  Or wine?  There are plenty of shops around town where you can find locally produced foods and wines that you can buy and enjoy while you are in town, or to take back home with you.  US citizens, please note that you are not allowed to bring back to the US any meat products, so if you buy some sausage, make sure you eat it before you leave!  (Check with the US Customs website to find out what you can and can't bring back with you.)

Pastas and oils for sale at a shop specializing in Tuscan foods

Shopping in Florence can be a lot of fun, especially when you are looking for souvenirs to bring home to friends and family.  Don't forget to buy yourself something nice too!